Friday, February 20, 2009

Raan Jay Fai

New York Times Review
"Like rock bands, the best noodle slingers attract groupies. Outside this simple open-air restaurant in old Bangkok, lines of cars, tuk-tuks and motorcycles crawl through the hot air, belching exhaust toward Jay Fai’s al fresco seating. Still, at Jay Fai’s opening time of around 4 in the afternoon, a line waits to be served, and the cook throws handfuls of chicken chunks and noodles into a pan as if she were a metronome on double time.

Jay Fai noodles stir-fried with spicy Thai basil is a dish also called drunken noodles. Some Thais believe the dish got its name because street cooks serve it into the wee hours, when their clientele is the drunkest. The broad rice noodles come out of the pan thin and chewy, as if they could tear easily. Yet they never turn tough, and the chef throws in large bits of sweet Thai basil, the edges seared with a slight soy aftertaste."

http://travel.nytimes.com/travel/guides/asia/thailand/bangkok/restaurant-detail.html?vid=1194733495893

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